They came to worship and to celebrate their freedom, not to fight.
After more than two decades of brutal repression under Saddam Hussein, Iraq's Shiite Muslims were free Tuesday to make their traditional pilgrimage to this sacred city south of Baghdad. Hundreds of thousands, perhaps as many as a million, came. Here and at a smaller gathering in Najaf, they paid homage to one of their faith's most revered figures. The pilgrimages continue through Thursday.
Despite worries of violence between rival Shiite factions -- and though some worshipers cut themselves with swords, beat themselves with chains or otherwise engaged in self-flagellation -- the atmosphere Tuesday was more carnival than jihad. ''Now you see all the Muslims united,'' said Adnan Hussein, 52, a teacher from Karbala. ''There is no trouble, no fight.''
Indeed, the proceedings were remarkably orderly, considering the huge number of Shiites who converged on this city of about 400,000. Pilgrims came from all across Iraq on foot, by car and bus and, in at least one case, on the back of a garbage truck. No U.S. troops were present to maintain order, apparently out of respect to those who might have been upset at the sight of foreign -- and non-Muslim -- guards. Iraqi volunteers provided the only security.
Shiites account for more than 60% of Iraq's population. Minority groups in Iraq and U.S. officials are concerned that Shiites could dominate a post-Saddam government and perhaps deal harshly with Sunni Muslims, Christians and others.
But the message here Tuesday was one of openness and inclusion. The several dozen pilgrims who eagerly talked with an American reporter said they want an Islamic government, but one that is democratic and tolerant of different religious views. ''Everybody knows Iraq is for everybody -- Sunni and Shia (Shiite) alike,'' said Adil Ali, 35, from Nasiriyah.
Karbala is the site of the seventh-century martyrdom of Hussein Ibn Ali, a grandson of the prophet Mohammed. The pilgrimage marks the end of the traditional 40-day mourning period that Shiites observe each year to mark his death.
Shiites see Hussein and his father, Ali, as the rightful heirs to the prophet. The battle in which Hussein was killed was one in a series of violent clashes between Sunnis, who dispute the Ali-Hussein claim, and Shiites.
Saddam, a Sunni, ordered the killings of thousands of Shiites during his regime. He banned mass pilgrimages and the self-flagellations that some Shiites endure to show grief over the killing of Hussein. Ali, Hussein's father, is buried in Najaf. This year's pilgrimages are thought to be the largest since 1977 -- two years before Saddam took over Iraq's government.
Through the day here Tuesday, volunteers armed with assault rifles manned security checkpoints. Others deftly directed cars, trucks and buses through swarms of pilgrims. The only sign of trouble came with the news that police arrested six men who may have been planning to set off explosives at one of the city's mosques.
With the temperature around 90 degrees, young men sprayed water on pilgrims to cool them off. Merchants set up stalls to sell cigarettes, ice cream and prayer beads. Weary pilgrims rested on carpets on the side of the street.
Thousands walked to Karbala, some of them barefoot over long distances to demonstrate their faithfulness. Many arrived carrying black and green banners paying homage to Hussein. Some held up graphic pictures depicting Hussein's death, his severed head impaled on a pole. They cried out to Hussein to explain why they had not been on a pilgrimage before.
The faithful paraded through the streets in groups and stopped to chant, jump, clap and beat their chests. Most marchers were men. Women, clad head to toe in black robes, stood on the curbside imitating the rituals and weeping with religious fervor. Pilgrims emerged from Karbala's main gold-domed mosque with tears streaming from their eyes.
Any journalist was swarmed by people eager to express themselves. Pilgrims said they were grateful to U.S. forces for ousting Saddam and impatient for the U.S. military to restore electricity and other necessities. But at the same time, they demanded that U.S. forces leave Iraq as soon as possible. Some carried fliers written in English: ''We refuse wardship (guardianship) and occupation.'' Another read: ''We want Freedom, Justice, Independence.'' Another: ''Return our human rights.''
Ali Abees Hassan, 42, a factory manager from Baghdad, said: ''Thank you, Americans. But now we don't need anybody to stay here anymore.''
Amiel Fathithl, 40, said, ''We don't want you to take all our money and all our oil.''
Pilgrims expressed suspicion toward Ahmad Chalabi, an Iraqi who has lived in exile most of his life but has returned -- with support from some at the Pentagon -- hoping to play a role in post-Saddam Iraq. Marchers chanted: ''No Saddam. No Chalabi.''
Even 7-year-old Rosl Sadik of Karbala exclaimed: ''I don't like Ahmad Chalabi. He's a big criminal and thief man.'' As she spoke, her family beamed with approval.