Hundreds of thousands of protesters took to Hong Kong's streets on Tuesday to denounce the government and its planned anti-subversion law in the city's biggest demonstration since the 1989 Tiananmen Square massacre.
"Return rule to the people," they chanted as the rally began to denounce the bill which critics say will impose Beijing-style control over free speech and the media.
Brandishing banners, umbrellas and fans, many wore black on a sweltering day to mourn what they said was the demise of rights and freedoms in one of the world's key financial centers.
Critics say the law, which Beijing has been pressing Hong Kong to enact, poses the biggest threat to basic rights in the former British colony since it reverted to Chinese rule in 1997.
Earlier, a group of protesters burned the Communist Party flag as Chinese Premier Wen Jiabao tried to reassure the territory that its freedoms would be protected. But the afternoon march was peaceful.
By nightfall, organizers said around 500,000 people had turned out, while police said they counted at least 350,000 people as of 6 p.m. (1000 GMT). It was the largest protest in Hong Kong since 1989, when a million turned out after troops killed hundreds of pro-democracy demonstrators in the Chinese capital.
The government has said it would not back down on the national security legislation regardless of Tuesday's turnout. Despite renewed criticism from the United States and Britain, the bill is bound to be passed by the territory's legislature, which is packed with pro-Beijing and pro-government supporters.
Hong Kong Chief Executive Tung Chee-hwa, who was mocked on many of the placards, issued a statement saying it was the government's responsibility to pass the security law as required by the Basic Law, its mini-constitution.
"The government has promised the rights and freedom enjoyed in Hong Kong now won't be affected by the legislation," he said.
The anti-subversion measures, to be enshrined as Article 23 of the Basic Law, were the prime target of many of the protesters. But others said they were frustrated by the government's handling of the ailing economy and the SARS epidemic, which killed some 300 people in the territory.
Marchers came from all walks of life with retirees and young couples pushing baby strollers walking alongside veteran democracy supporters, highlighting the depth of dissatisfaction with the government. Many were demonstrating for the first time.
PUBLIC ANGER
Political commentator Andy Ho said he was not surprised by the extent of public anger.
"Those who have come out are from all walks of life, and are not only opposed to Article 23 but a host of government policies," Ho told Reuters.
"This should serve as a wake-up call for the government. If it does not heed people's views, grievances will deepen and it will make it more difficult for it to rule Hong Kong."
The flag-burning took place a few hundred meters (yards) from the convention center where Wen and local leaders were celebrating the sixth anniversary of Hong Kong's return to China.
In what are believed to be the first public comments by a senior Chinese leader on the controversial issue, Wen repeatedly assured Hong Kong that its special status would be protected.
"The legislation according to Article 23 will not affect the different rights and freedoms enjoyed by Hong Kong people, including journalists, under the law," Wen told reporters.
He did not refer to Tuesday's marchers directly, but said stability was the key to the territory's long-term prosperity.
Though Hong Kong was promised a high degree of autonomy after the handover, critics say there has been a subtle roll-back of freedoms, especially as it grows more economically dependent on the mainland.
The government's push to pass the law this month has stoked concerns that any dissent may soon be treated the same way it is in China. Beijing fears that without the law, Hong Kong will be used as a base for subversive activities against it.
The Falun Gong spiritual group for instance practices freely in Hong Kong but has been banned in China as an "evil cult."
Under the legislation, people can be jailed for life if convicted of subversion, treason or secession from China. It also allows gives police sweeping search powers without court orders.
But the government's much-criticized handling of the bill and many other issues may have set the stage for a bigger battle.
Its refusal to allow more consultation and widespread anger at Tung have spurred calls for more democracy and may have galvanized generations into becoming more politically active.