Nightclubs, massage parlors shut down in Indonesia as holy fasting month begins

Indonesia began the Islamic fasting month of Ramadan on Friday along with an accompanying tradition _ quiet grumbling in the entertainment industry over local edicts to close nightclubs, massage parlors and amusement centers for the entire period.

Jakarta masseur Rini Widowati said she would observe the fast, but bemoaned a city order that shut down her establishment.

"It sucks," Widowati said, adding that although she would continue earning her basic salary, she'd earn none of the tips that make up most of her pay.

During Ramadan, observant Muslims refrain from eating, drinking, smoking and sex from dawn to dusk. Muslims believe it was during Ramadan about 1,400 years ago that the Quran, their holy book, was revealed to the Prophet Muhammad.

Indonesia _ the world's most populous Muslim nation _ maintains a secular tradition. Most of Indonesia's 180 million Muslims are moderate and tolerant of other faiths.

Observance of the fast here is less widespread than in the Middle East. Restaurants can open during the day, though most hang thick curtains over their windows.

But that secular tradition has come under pressure by conservative Muslim groups since the downfall of ex-dictator Suharto, and some see moves to stop nightspots opening during Ramadan as part of this trend.

Under Jakarta's decree, issued in 2002, all of the city's thousands of massage parlors, freestanding nightclubs, bars and karaoke rooms have to close for the whole month.

Discos in five-star hotels can stay open but with limited hours. The same restriction applies to restaurants featuring live bands so long as they serve alcohol "discreetly."

Other administrations around the country have issued similar directives.

"We believe this is good for everyone," said local Muslim lawmaker Slamet Nurdin. "There is much support for this as most Muslims want to focus their minds on fasting."

Some have taken the enforcement of the ban into their own hands. In 2001, Islamic militants launched nightly raids on nightclubs flouting the ban during Ramadan. But since the 2002 Bali bombings, those groups have largely disbanded amid a police crackdown on extremists.

It's unclear how effective this year's ban will be. City officials and police _ who are responsible for its enforcement _ are notorious for taking bribes in exchange for turning a blind eye.

In the seedy Blora nightclub district of central Jakarta, a handwritten notice hanging on the door of one bar announces it will be closing for just three days.

Aphrodite Bar and Restaurant, which is popular with foreigners, has covered up its trademark statue of the nude Greek goddess of love with a silk cloth _ but plans to open as normal.

"It's a symbol associated with sex," said restaurant manager Evariana Sianipar. "We cover it because we want to respect Muslims who want to concentrate on religious matters."

But some bar and restaurant owners say they are undaunted by the government restrictions, or the possibility of threats by militant groups.

"It's a nuisance," said a cafe owner on Jaksa Street, a popular haunt with foreign backpackers. "But I refuse to change my business. Everyone has a right to their freedom."